This morning put a severe damper on our spirits. It was raining. Not a downpour. But steady rain. It’s the first time we’ve faced it here and, while prepared, our mood hit a new low. We were already sad about no longer being in the north and focusing on “Ring Road” touristy attractions. We didn’t need the rain to make it worse. 

Within minutes of getting on the road, and watching the bug remains and road grime from yesterday smear mercilessly across the windshield, it was worse as I was annoyed at driving. Tourists (yup, I’m not including us in that statement at this point as we are visitors and have logged roughly 3,000 km here) who haven’t yet figured out the peculiarities of driving in Iceland. In particular the concept of the one lane bridge flummoxed them. We actually watched two cars in a Mexican standoff on a bridge until finally they somehow got past each other. This proves several things:

1. The drivers were American or German, no one else here is that aggressive. Certainly not the Icelanders. 
2. You can rent absolutely tiny cars here. The SUV I was driving almost touches both sides of the bridges and would struggle to make room for someone walking.  
3. Tourists are impatient and oblivious to local custom until they choose to acknowledge and respect it.  Which most will never do. 

I was on edge. Maybe still am a little. 

We were riding along in silence approaching our first stop when Tim saw a sign, “Reindeer Crossing” for the next 7,5 km. I told him his mission was to spot reindeer while I drove. Not 5 minutes later, through a rain and dirt covered window, the landscape blurring past at 130 km/h, he shouts “oh my god, look! STOP!”

The picture from my phone doesn’t do them justice. But a rapid stop complete with vehicular repacking (everything flying to the front as I slammed on the brakes and slid into a gravel turnout) and full commando escape into the wild with cameras in hand, we got quite close. I came within 100 yards before the wind shifted and they realized that they didn’t like me. But that event, seeing the reindeer, made us think anything was possible. It also launched a day that would contend for one of the best on the trip. 

Our first official stop was at Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon on the edge of Vatnajökull National Park. The lagoon catches large chunks of the seasonal melt from the glacier and facilitates them washing out to sea. The color of the ice and the sight of them bobbing in the lagoon is a must see during a trip here. Watching tourists do stupid things , like pretend to steal a Zodiac boat or try and find a way to walk on the floating ice, also makes for an entertaining visit. 

But a trip here isn’t complete without a walk across the street to the Northern Atlantic beach where the icebergs actually hit the ocean. They will occasionally wash ashore and make beautiful shapes and contrast with the black sand. Sometimes travel companions even want to know if they are cold, so the chunks of ice get hefted into the air. Small hint: it was freezing outside and you’re holding ice. Yes, it’s cold. 

On the way to our next stop we noticed a very unique canyon off the side of the road, so we once again made a “dynamic road departure” and bounced down a few kilometers of unimproved two track. At the end we found a great place to explore.  Fortunately the rain was taking a break so the bugs could come out in full force (yay!), but they didn’t stop us from looking around. We hiked to the top of a small knoll, explored the river basin which feeds the glacier lagoon and contemplated a hike into the canyon. But we skipped the hike due to time constraints. This was another unplanned successful stop. Today was starting to look up 

Next was on to Fjaðrárgljúfur. (I’ll pause while you figure out your own creative and incorrect pronounciation of that word.)

Fjaðrárgljúfur is what we would call a slot canyon In the southwest. Exceptionally narrow and usually quite deep, these are areas cut by water. What this one has that the ones in Nevada and Arizona don’t, was an innate feeling of mystery. 

A truly beautiful location, we couldn’t wait to explore. There are numerous places on top of the canyon walls where you can pose for pictures or look down and admire the sights. We did both. Every chance we got. People thought we were a little crazy, but we were the happiest we’ve been in days, and heard ourselves many things in different languages. 

It was definitely one of our favorite locations of the entire trip. The canyon was great and it made us feel truly alive.  

Soon after we were in the town of Vik and decided to celebrate with an actual meal. We had a hamburger in Hofn for lunch at Tim’s favorite Icelandic restaurant: N1.

Yes, N1 is a gas station chain. But each actually has a great grill inside where they actually make decent food to order. While we were in less populated areas the sight of an N1 meant food and fuel. Here it meant “more grease.” So we sat for a really great meal at a little bistro in Vik. 

Watching the activity in the town and recognizing it is essentially the midpoint of the southern coast, we expect Vik to grow significantly over the next few years. There were rooming houses and restaurants going up already. Please come and enjoy the town before it grows too much!

A quick ride from Vik took us to Dyrhólaey, a smal volcanic peninsula known for bird nesting, a famous lighthouse, natural arch, and an amazing view. After driving up the access road in fear of destroying our beloved Pajero, we arrived at a parking lot full of little Renaults and Kias. We literally don’t know how they got there as some of them were too small to fill the potholes. 

Unfortunately it was a very abbreviated visit due to exceptionally cold wind and light rain, but the location lived up to its reputation. 

A brief 20 minute drive brought us to our least welcoming accomodations to date. We appear to be staying in an old converted dorm, which could be worse. It isn’t like we have to share a bathroom, or have stained sheets, or found hair in our beds. Oh wait, yes it is. We both swear that the nice young lady behind the country actually said, “Oh Americans, I’ll put you in the crappy old building out back.”  That’s the last time I rely on Tkm to sweet talk the attendant. Unless it’s a guy, then Tim is up. 

Tomorrow marks an easy day checking out a couple waterfalls and returning to Reykjavik. We are definitely on the downward trend, but today was a fantastic day to remind us why we love it here. 

Tim says that the reindeer were the omen we needed to get the day off on the correct foot. I didn’t see a red nose through the fog, but maybe he was there.